KENYA: THE LAND OF HAKUNA MATATA
If I am not mistaking, apart from watching cartoon shows, the kids from 80's and 90's had maintained one more amazing hobby of story reading. As being a 80's kid I still remember, after coming back from school I used to spend my free hours with varieties of story books. Fortunately, as I was born and brought up in a Bong family, I inherited a special fondness towards literature from prominent Bong genes. I never ran short of extraordinary adventurous stories from Bengali authors (from English authors as well). Stories that can easily take your breath away and can unleash your imagination. Some went into deep forest of Amazon and killed the giant Anaconda. The great Bengali writer Bhibutibhushan Bandopadhyay headed towards the jungle of Masai Mara in his fictitious story 'Chander Pahar' and wrote a brave tale of conquering the ferocious demon. Each and every page is so amazingly crowned with minute details of African forest and wild life, African tribe and their unperturbed lifestyle, dangers and challenges from wild beasts and peaceful co-existence of human and wild animals. The
'Man-eaters of Kumaon', ' The Champawat Tiger', 'The Leopard of
Rudraprayag' and many more from the legendary hunter Jim Corbett can
easily accumulate a great anticipation for wild life and nature. As I spent a
very sensual time period of my life with such huge collection of
adventurous stories, I always found myself very close to nature. The earthy organic smell, the snapping branches and the cracking leaves had always been very dear to my heart. The chirping birds, bubbling brooks, buzzing insects and croaking frogs haunt me like anything. The single and strong query of 'what else are hidden in this nature' is always a frequent visitor to my mind. So this time it was my turn to explore the scintillating kingdom lied within the jungle of Africa.
Let's Fly to Kenya
It was late December. We flew to Nairobi with Kenya Airways from international airport of Mumbai. Cutting through the sky we reached our destination after six hours and thirty minutes. After answering few common questions from straight faced immigration officers at airport, we were received by a quirky and smart girl, Fatema. She handed over all the brochures, leaflets and coupons of hotels, tour plans, boat riding and complimentary meals. Then we were introduced to our shuttle driver Aslam, who would be our travel companion for the entire tour in Kenya.
Aslam is an Indian origin and settled in Nairobi from last five or six generations. In no time he matched his Indian chord within with that of ours.We too felt a very close acquaintance from Aslam in that foreign land. We began the journey towards Masai Mara. In the way of our journey we had a friendly and informative chit chat session with Aslam. The economical, political, educational and cultural status of both the countries (India and Kenya) were shared. At the end we surprisingly found a common fact between these two nations; 'both the countries are terribly flawed and corrupted'. Aslam's forefathers originally did belong to Kutch area of Gujarat. In British period they had a forceful mass migration to Africa for building rail tracks. From then, they got settled in Kenya and never went back on the way home. Presently the statistics show that more than ten million people are permanent resident in Kenya who have their ancestral roots in India.
The shuttle continued its journey through the busy townships, small colonies and villages of Africa. The eyes caught the African people, busy in daily life hustle and bustle, scuttling kids running by the road side with their waving hands of 'Hello' and 'Bye-Bye' to us. After a non-stop two hours journey, it halted for refreshment at the great Rift Valley of Kenya. Apart from being a caring driver, I must have to say, Aslam is also a very informative travel guide. The Rift Valley runs through Kenya from north to south. It starts in Tanzania in south and continues northward upto Ethiopia. It was created by a geographical upwelling due to the interactions of three major tectonics; The Arabian, Nubian and the Somalian Plates. The view from every location was beautiful and breathtaking. The air breathed was fresh and pure. The quaint charm, crisp breeze, picturesque towns deep down the valley and some of the oldest and deepest lakes made it a beauty to behold.
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Local people have opened up tea stalls, cafeteria, little shops on wheels, full of wooden handcrafts and colorful clothes with tribal prints and geometrical patterns on it. When we entered a cafeteria run by a smiling old man, he threw a very familiar smile as if he knows us from long back and said ' Namasthe!!! Garram Chai???' (hot tea is available here). His 'Garram Chai' was refreshing enough to break the travel fatigue. We got energized and were ready to finish the last half of the journey. Aslam prank-fully informed us that after an hour we all would get a free body massage right inside the shuttle. Closure we approach towards Masai Mara, the road onward would be more and more bumpy and uneven. The scenic frame outside the shuttle window kept on changing itself pretty fast with distance. The residential houses, markets, and localities vanished from the view and extended grassy meadow and uninhabited lands miles after miles on both sides occupied the frame. The placidity was being interrupted by some automobile garage, petrol pumps, mid sized restaurants scattered randomly at a large distance.
The X-Mas Gift from Masai Mara
Bunch of wild buffaloes grazing in the grassland, handful of spotted deer peeping out of the bush, the muddy road, streams of running water cutting through the way and finally a lonely running ostrich by the roadside signaled us the arrival of mysterious land of Masai Mara.
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| Grassy Meadow |
It was almost more than five hours we started our journey from Nairobi.When we finally reached our hotel Sopa Mara, a living Santa Clause was roaming in the reception lobby with his chaiming bells, greeting all the tourists "Ho-Ho-Ho, Merry Christmas" with a bright radiant smile. We were taken to a wooden cottage. Christmas gifts wrapped with glittery papers were piled on the bedside table. A delicious lunch and a tight afternoon nap ranked top among the 'must have' list to raise the energy level up. We were finally out for our long awaited Masai Mara Jungle safari. After crossing a certain point, the huge iron gate alerting with the tagline 'Pedestrians are strictly not allowed beyond this point' and a danger sign indicated the very last margin of the human territory. As the gate opened we inched towards that unknown world. The world that has been scripted in the pages of 'Chander Pahar', that has been only seen and never felt in the animation shows like 'The Jungle Book' or 'Simba The Lion King'. Eyes were flushed and cheeks were blushed with extreme zeal and excitement.
It was like a royal dynasty, a proud king's kingdom where we common human beings are pityfully negligible. As if, we are not at all allowed to have even a single look on that glorious dynasty. No, no no!!! You worthless people don't even deserve it. It is our greatness or you can say our kindness that you people are being allowed to put your dirty, greedy footsteps down in this royal land.
The entire world behind that iron gate reminded me only and only of the historical description of a royal empire ruled by some extremely powerful, intelligent and wise king. An empire, where each and every group of members are assigned to a specific designation with specific duties. As you go deeper and deeper in the empire, the royalty, the beauty and the prestige of the designations increase proportionately.
The wild buffaloes and the wild beasts crowned with huge curvy horns are the easiest to be seen in the frontal of the royal city. Just like the royal security guards, keeping a sharp eye on the regular comers and the goers and the stayers in their kingdom. One faulty or suspicious movement and their lethal horns will teach you a good lesson.
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| African Wild Beast |
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| Behave yourself tourists, or we will teach you how to behave in our kingdom |
After going a little far, the aam admi (common people) were seen, very much busy in their daily chores. The deer and the zebras seemed pretty much satisfied and peaceful in their simple herbivorous life. Each and every moment they are enjoying their existence, secured in their large group, staying far and far apart from the complexity of politics, power and royalty. They go with the saying 'Live & Let Live', devoid of any demands, ambitions and competitions. They are ordinary. They are huge in number. Here & there, everywhere they are available. Just like at ten'o clock in the morning the urban streets remain filled with billions and millions of common people, trying hard to survive the war of existence.We people are as ordinary and powerless as the deer and the zebras are in that royal dynasty.They throw their attention towards the cars passing by them. They feel nervous, the get panicked quite easily and take no time to be disappeared from your view. The escapism is the easiest salvation for them.
The sun was like a fireball just above the horizon, lighting up the sky, splashing its orange rays on the forest sovereignty. The light breeze was working its way through the tree tops and the grassland. Now have to return towards hotel. As after sunset, the tourists are strictly not allowed to continue the safari. The important members with higher designation and superior authority didn't give their sight on the very first day of our jungle safari. Never mind. One should not expect easy availability of important personalities. Great things take time to arrive.
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| Sunset at Masai Mara (source) |
Next morning we got absolutely delighted seeing huge complimentary breakfast items on the buffet table. It seemed like an arrangement of gala dinner has been made. The ambiance of restaurant was all joyful, jam packed with foreign tourists on breakfast tables clinking their cutlery against the breakfast plates. The jovial and smiling waitresses were very much fast in their movements to do the needful for the guests.
Again we headed towards that glorified empire. Just like last day visit, we ingressed through the security zone surrounded by the buffaloes and and the wild beasts. Then we were greeted by the deer and zebras, the common people of the dynasty. Our eyes were tempted to have a sight on other animals this time. After a little random search, we got a couple of giraffes. So docile and carefree by nature.Unlike the deer and the zebras, they don't like congestion , I guess. Freely moving with graceful gesture, keeping a distance from each other, least bothered to the passerby and the flashing camera. Each of them has held a celebrity kind of attitude up in them.
After a while the jungle started unfolding its superior members one by one. Below a medium sized tree, two adult leopards were seen, spending their quality time with their cute little cubs. Being disturbed with presence of outsiders, constantly flashing the camera lens, they gave a sarcastic look on us, "Don't you people have any other stuffs to do about except poking your nose in others business!!" Initially they chose to ignore us completely. But when the little cubs felt uneasy as the shuttle queue growing longer and longer, they took an insulting departure from that spot. What a royal attitude!!! Such attitude does suit perfectly on the Mantri Sahab (The Minister) indeed. One of the powerful assistants of the king after all.
The Senapati Ji (The commander) arrived after a hectic search. But he denied to come closer to his poor unfortunate visitors. Aslam caught a small group of rhinos in his binocular, by the side of a narrow body of water. He took an attempt to drive the shuttle little closer to them. But I think, the commanders were all engrossed in some important administrative works. As they sensed our car approaching closer to them, all of them crossed the stream and went on other side. We helpless and negligible human being should better respect the decision of the great commander. He has a powerful stock of a couple of sharp swords (as his status symbol) made of keratin of his own. The largest and the most prominent one towards the end of the nose. No, I don't want to stabbed and killed by the sword of the commander. So its better to stop chasing them.
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We didn't expect the Lion King would be too kind to his fan followers, praying with full dedication just for having a single sight of the Highness.After the arrival of Senapati Ji, our Highness didn't take too much time to arrive. Sitting in a posture full of dominance, superiority and royalty in the grassland. The half eaten kill just beside him reflected his power. A poor deer, possibly was killed the last night had lost its fleshy abdomen part for royal supper. The white narrow rib bones stretched out of left over blood and flesh indicated how helpless they are in front of the Highness. Someone's life, someone's royal meal and the food pyramid is being maintained day after day without any deviation from nature's law. The great king seemed like a little idle, a little drowsy. Most probably he was still exhausted due to the last night hectic kill. As expected, his ego of stardom and power was shining with full glow; ignorant, careless and absolutely bossy towards the human visitors. Turned his head back for a moment and then went back to his resting gesture "Got your penny Moron?? Now get lost!!"
We were happy. The jungle of Masai Mara didn't deprive us, didn't disappoint us. Though we didn't get a very warm welcome and felt a little unwanted in their glorious kingdom but at least all of them obliged us with their kind appearance.
A Friendly Visit to Masai Village
Whenever it sounds Africa, the extended grassland, the scintillating wild life and at last but not the least the amazing tribal community comes in mind. Next morning, Aslam suggested us to visit the local tribal village. As they stay in Masai Mara the tribal community has been named as Masai Tribe. As soon our shuttle reached the outskirts, the kids, the ladies, the men all got too much engaged to welcome us in their very own place. Thanks to God, he helped us to overcome the intense inferiority complex gifted from the wild kingdom last day.
A small village with no more than ten mud huts caught the sight. The tallest man approached the shuttle and introduced himself as the leader of the village. He seemed quite excited to let us experience their culture, tradition and lifestyle. As per his instruction the lovely ladies greeted us with welcome performance, singing some thing in some incomprehensible language with high pitched voice and dancing with rhythm. The kids dressed in ragged and dirty cloths, with head to toe evenly covered with thick layer of dust. Little villagers were all laughing, touching us and holding the hands in innocent curiosity.
The leader started sharing the details of their social system. The leaders are chosen from the sons of previous leader and the tradition goes on the basis of family. They believe in polygamy system and have well maintained the practice of being married to more than one person at the same time. Masai society is strongly patriarchal in nature with elder men deciding more major matters. Traditional Masai lifestyle centers around their cattle. How rich a Masai man is, mainly decided by the number of cattle and children one does have. A herd of 50 cattle is prestigious. On the auspicious occasion like marriage or business deal or on a peace making event on a certain issue, exchange of cattle is a very common and respectful practice in the society. Prettier the bride, bigger the business deal, bigger the controversial issue, more the number of cattle. They religiously believe that God gave them all the cattle on the earth, so these cattle constitute their primary source of food. They eat the meat, drink the milk and occasionally drinks the blood too (I know it feels eeeewwww...... but that's a fact).
What surprised me the most was, the way they speak fluent English with tourists. Not only the men, but the kids too are pretty much proficient in English. As being a school teacher, my mother was little interested with the course structure of the school. They read Science, Geography, History, Literature and Mathematics.
Three hours flashed back without even a small indication and Aslam told us, its time to go back. The Masai kids promised my mother that they will study well and will do something good for their society. Almost the entire village rushed to us for having few last goodbye snapshots.
I got a young Masai's company up to the shuttle and at last wrapped with with a naughty smile and brattish eyes a question was thrown to me from my companion "So, Saheli 90 or 100?"
Being all dumb I asked "What 90 or 100?"
"90 or 100 cows?" he said giggling a little loud.
With instant reds and pinks on my cheeks "Stop it now man! I won't marry you, just no way."
"You made me sad Saheli, never mind. All the very best for your future, I was joking",The Masai said laughing out loud.
On the way back, again Aslam took the shuttle deep in the forest to catch the sight of the only animal left, the animal, even the lion king is scared of- The Elephants. But we got no sign of them. But as bonus points we saw a little group of three lionesses with five or six chubby and cutesy cubs, playing, rolling and running in the grasslands, a couple of ostrich, a group of birds from a rare species cat-walking in the grassland like a beautiful super model and the most common, bunch of aam aadmi.
These three days were the best Christmas gift I ever had in my life. The only difference was, the gift was not sent to me from Santa Clause this time but the wild kingdom, the gorgeous animals with super royal attitude, the Masai village with great Masai men and women and kids showered me with pure joy, charm and lifetime picturesque memory to cherish forever.
Naivasha Lake & Nakuru Lake
The Pelicans and the hippos are the main two creatures that made Naivasha Lake world famous. The large water birds are easily characterized by their long beaks and large throat pouchs for catching prey and storing water from the scooped up contents before swallowing.
On the other hand billions and millions of Flemingo have brightened the existence of Nakuru lake. Moreover, huge groups of rhinos, that are easily available, have additionally drawn the tourist's attraction.
Thompson Falls
A 243 ft scenic water fall that is originated from Aberdare mountain range and has been emerged in Ewaso Ng'iro river. It is situated a couple of miles away from central Kenya town of Nyahururu. In the year of 1883 Joseph Thompson, a Scottish geologist and naturalist first discovered this water falls and named it after his father. The scenery of the mist feeding the dense forest below is something that can make you wonder-struck.
Aberdare Forest: The Ark
The Aberdare is the third highest range of mountains in Kenya and quite popular for its thick salient forests. The forest along the steep hillside is a cozy home to elephants, buffalo,black rhino, giant forest hog. Moreover it gives amazing chances to tourists to spot illusive leopards and also rare and occasional sight of the golden cats. For getting the best view in the forest I would strongly recommend, the world renowned tree lodges 'The Tree Top' (Queen Elizabeth was a frequent visitor to this lodge during her sojourn in Aberdares) and 'The Ark' situated in salient area of the forest. Both these tree lodges provide excellent nighttime viewing at the gentle slopes and thinner belt of forests.
The Aberdares comes alive in night time with the cries of hyrax and sharp growl of leopard echoing through the forests. From the Bar and the restaurant windows you can easily see a large herd of elephants, rhinos, buffalo moving silently through the tree belts and visiting the waterholes and again fading away into forest after a while. Buffaloes fighting over the territory, monkeys and Genet cats get down from trees and takes a rapid slip through the lodge halls now and then. Apart from World Heritage Site for watching the scintillating nighttime wild life, the Aberdares is also famous for its world class dining and wining.
Sweet Water Tented Camp: Ol' Pejeta conservancy
Ol Pejeta conservancy is a not-for-profit conservancy. It is situated in 90K acres between foothills of the Aberdares and mount Kenya. This location in private conservancy holds a higher wild life-to-area ratio than any other national parks in Kenya. As being situated on the equator line, the climate was all pleasant in the month of December. This camp features 39 luxury tents with each its private veranda facing the waterhole and offers unperturbed wild life watching.
This conservancy does have the largest Rhino sanctuary in east Africa with a milestone population of 100 black Rhinos. Another worth visiting spot is the Chimpanzee sanctuary, a heaven and cozy shelter to orphaned, abandoned and rescued Chimpanzees.
All members of the 'Big Five Game' Lion, Buffalo, Leopard, Elephant and Rhinoceros can be found here.However the ambiance of sweet water tented camp clearly declared a strong dominance of human over wild animals, unlike Masai Mara. Elephants and Camels tied with heavy iron chain in the camp, fully electrified fence isolating the wild life from human civilization to avoid human-wildlife conflict, dutiful fence attendant at every seven kilometer of the fence strictly alerting the wild habitats to keep a safe distance from them and specially constructed game corridors to restrict the free movement of wild animals in and out of the conservancy diluted the beauty of unperturbed wild life to some extent.
But the the Zebras and the Deer played the very same role of common public in Sweet Water Tented Camp too. What I observed, in this part the Aam Admis are much smarter and relaxed than they are in Masai Mara. Most probably they enjoyed the freedom and liberty of secularism in this camp, I guess. They know quite well, they won't be served in the royal meal to the great king here. Human beings are much more lenient and friendly than expectation. You can see them freely moving and grazing around your tent and if you show well manners and etiquette, they may approach very close to you and won't mind to offer you some nice posing for photography.
What wondered me the most, was the awesomely cute Dig Dig, rushing through the grass, exposing out and hiding in the bushes in no time. Unknowingly, I drew a conclusion on this little animal resembling a rabbit belonging to same species of rabbit. But later from the hotel workers we came to know it is the smallest species of deer indeed and the name is Dig Dig .The never seen and never known smallest deer didn't seem as smart and confident as its bigger version, may be due its small size. But no doubt the most adorable and the loveliest creature that I saw in Kenya, was nothing but Dig Dig.
The dreamy tour came to its end with a happening 31st evening party with Samburu Dance (a dance form of Samburu tribal community), melodious song of 'Jump up-Hakunamatata' ,delicious buffet dinner and absolutely free wine session.
Kenya is truly the 'Land of Hakuna Matata'- The 'Land of No Worries'. Animals live their pristine wild lives without a worry, each and every strata of food pyramid is being maintained without a worry, environment pollution throws no worry with vast greenery and forests and parks,African tribes are carrying forward their tradition and values and bridging themselves with modern education and civilization with no worry, mother nature doesn't get worried due to human and human doesn't get worried due to its loving mother nature. The Land of Hakuna Matata is ever ready to embrace you with its beauty, bounty, animals, forests and smiling-singing-dancing tribes. This land will definitely set your spirit free of worries.
& Miles to Go before I sleep-Robert Frost
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